The culture of the Kalash tribe

A short distance from Chitral is a place called Ayun, from where private vehicles travel to the Kalash valleys. Since the road ahead consists of steep slopes and dangerous mountain tracks, it is risky to take your own vehicle beyond Ayun.

The Kalash Valley is a beautiful valley located in the mountainous Hindu Kush region. The Kalash tribe has a unique culture, language, traditions, and way of life. They worship one God, known as Dezau, and are also believed to worship animals and elements of nature. They are often described as polytheists. However, according to some members of the Kalash community, they worship only one God, and many of the other claims associated with their religion are not correct.

There are different opinions regarding the origins of the Kalash people in this region. Some historians believe that they came from Syria, while some experts believe that they were part of the army of Alexander the Great and remained in this region when Alexander passed through the area in the 3rd century BC, eventually becoming the ancestors of the present-day Kalash people. Another theory suggests that they migrated from Central Asia and reached Chitral in the 2nd century BC.

Their language is known as Kalasha, while Khowar is also spoken in the region. The Kalash people have a deep connection with nature, and nature has a strong influence on their lives, culture, and spirituality. Because of their traditional black clothing, they were historically referred to as “Black Kafirs.” Kalash women stay in a special place called “Bashaleni” during menstruation and after childbirth. During this period, even their family members traditionally do not meet them.

 There is also a common perception that Kalash people do not bathe for years and therefore have an unpleasant body odor. However, when we spoke to local people about this, we learned that this is no longer the case and that Kalash people do bathe nowadays. According to traditional customs, if a married woman wants to leave her husband and marry another man, the new husband has to pay twice the amount that was originally given by her first husband.  Kalash women hold a special and respected position in their culture. Many important household decisions are made by women. Taking care of the home and livestock, farming, managing finances, and other household responsibilities are largely handled by women. Kalash women are independent in making decisions about their lives and families. The Chilam Joshi festival is celebrated every year from May 14 to May 16 with great enthusiasm to welcome the arrival of spring.

 The Uchao festival is celebrated in autumn, while the important Chaumos festival is celebrated in December and continues for around two weeks. Thousands of tourists visit the Kalash valleys to witness these colorful and unique festivals. These celebrations help showcase the daily life, traditions, and distinctive lifestyle of the Kalash people to the world.

The Kalash region consists of three valleys: Rumbur, Birir, and Bumburet. As spring approaches, preparations for the Chilam Joshi festival begin in all three valleys. Bumburet is considered the main center of the celebrations, where a three-day festival takes place. Kalash people from all three valleys gather there to celebrate, enjoy themselves, and perform their traditional rituals. The traditions of the Kalash people are centuries old and unique. What is particularly interesting is that this community continues to follow many of these ancient traditions even today.

 The Kalash people celebrate the Chilam Joshi festival to welcome spring. As the valley becomes green and lush, the celebrations begin. However, the Kalash population in the region has been declining day by day. Many are converting to Islam, while some are leaving the area.

Local members of the Kalash community told us that there is no force or pressure on them to convert. They said that Muslims in the area take good care of them and respect them. According to them, some Kalash people are converting to Islam voluntarily. When a Kalash woman marries a Muslim man, she becomes a Muslim.

When a member of the Kalash community dies, the body is traditionally placed in a wooden coffin. In the past, these wooden coffins were sometimes floated away or placed on a distant mountain. This was part of the traditional funeral practices of the Kalash people.

However, people eventually started removing the bodies from the wooden coffins in search of valuables and other items. As a result, the Kalash people now place the dead in wooden coffins in designated cemeteries.  Education up to Grade 12 is available in the Kalash Valley. Most of the teachers are local. Some girls are also pursuing their education in Chitral, Islamabad, and Lahore.

The main sources of income in the area are farming and livestock rearing. Corn and wheat are among the major crops grown here. Wheat is mainly used for their own consumption. Apricots and walnuts are also found in abundance in the region.

 The Kalash people consider even their cousins as brothers and sisters, and marriage between close relatives, such as first cousins, is not permitted. Marriage with more distant relatives is allowed. Traditionally, they marry within their own community. If someone marries a Muslim or a person from outside the Kalash community, the family may become upset and cut off relations with them. When a young man and woman develop feelings for each other, the man's family visits the woman's home to formally ask for her hand in marriage. If the woman's family refuses, the couple may choose to elope and marry. 

Among the Kalash, there is traditionally little concept of marriage without mutual affection and choice. Love marriage holds a particularly important, almost sacred, place in Kalash culture. Kalash women often look for beauty as well as sincerity in their partners. When a girl elopes and gets married, the groom's family provides her with clothes and household items as part of her bridal belongings. When she returns to her parents' home after a month or even a year, and later prepares to return to her husband's home as a bride, her parents also send her off with clothes and household items. 

In the past, Kalash women were often married at a relatively young age. Today, however, many women marry around the age of 25 or 26. If a Kalash girl elopes with a Muslim man and marries him, her family may sever ties with her permanently. If a Kalash girl is being forced into a marriage she does not want, she may threaten to convert to Islam. In this way, some girls manage to marry the person of their own choice. Many tourists, who attend Kalash festivals, including Chilam Joshi, also propose marriage to Kalash girls.

Kalash girls generally pay considerable attention to their appearance and personal care, while boys tend to focus less on their appearance. As a result, the girls are sometimes perceived as more attractive than the boys. Kalash girls are naturally known for their distinctive facial features and fair skin. Despite this, some Kalash girls nowadays also use skin-lightening creams.  During Chilam Joshi and other festivals, many girls reportedly use commercially available skin-lightening creams extensively. 

Kalash women have complete freedom to pursue education. Their families generally bear the educational expenses, and special scholarships are also available for Kalash girls and women. Almost all Kalash women are skilled in sewing, embroidery, and cooking. They make their traditional clothes themselves. Kalash traditional clothing is rarely available in ordinary markets because making these garments is a very difficult and time-consuming process. The cost of making a single traditional outfit can be around 10,000 Pakistani rupees if they have their traditional clothes made by a tailor, the tailor charges around 1,000 Pakistani rupees for stitching one outfit. Kalash girls also use mobile phones.  

During festivals, Kalash women pay special attention to their appearance and personal grooming. They get ready at home before coming to the celebrations. Even if they do not always want to, Kalash women are expected to follow many aspects of their traditional culture. For example, wearing their heavy and elaborate traditional clothing throughout the day and night can be difficult and uncomfortable. Some women even express their discomfort privately. However, despite these difficulties, they cannot imagine abandoning the traditional dress because Kalash people believe that giving up their traditional clothing would harm their cultural identity.

 Kalash people build their houses using wood and stone. They use firewood and gas for cooking. Usually, six to seven people live in one household. Agriculture and livestock farming remain popular occupations, although many Kalash people are now also working in different professions. One of the most famous and delicious local dishes is a bean-based dish, which Kalash people enjoy preparing and eating. When a Kalash person dies, the body is placed in a wooden coffin. Traditionally, a woman is kept in the coffin for one day, while a man is kept there for two days, after which the body is buried. Kalash people observe mourning until the next festival. People from all three valleys attend the funeral. For seven days, no food is cooked in the house of the deceased. Instead, people from all three valleys come together and prepare food. Millet bread is made, and a goat is slaughtered and cooked. People continue to sit and mourn at the house of the deceased for seven days. 

Chilam Joshi Festival

Speaking of the Chilam Joshi Festival, the celebrations begin on May 12. On this day, elders from Bumburet pick flowers and visit the homes of families who are mourning, marking the end of their mourning period. 

On May 13, children and adults decorate the village with flowers and walnut leaves.

On May 14, the milk available in every household is distributed among the people.

On May 15, children who were born on the same day the previous year are taken to the mountains, where traditional rituals are performed. People wear new clothes and pour milk over their faces. After the rituals are completed, everyone gathers at a place called Batrik, where they dance and celebrate. On the morning of May 16, prayers are offered during breakfast. At around 2 p.m., people belonging to other religions are separated, and special prayers are performed. The prayers continue for about an hour. 

The Kalash boys then come down after offering prayers at the Manado place of worship. During the celebrations, the boys playfully hit the girls with leaves, after which everyone dances together. People from other religions also join the celebrations at this stage.

A Kalash person can continue dancing at the festival for as long as they wish. When one group becomes tired and sits down to rest, another group takes its place and joins the dancing.  During the festival, when a Kalash girl leaves her home, she is often advised not to talk to unfamiliar boys or men. 

Kalash girls also cover their faces for a reason. They believe that photographs can be misused on the internet nowadays, so they are cautious about having their pictures taken with strangers. Cricket, football, volleyball, tennis, and badminton are also quite popular in the Kalash region. At the same time, the tendency to beg among some Kalash children and a few women is reportedly increasing. Some children even become persistent and insist on asking tourists for money.